[viper_boy403]

THis just started happening after I put the turbo on my car. Today it was worse (after oil change) and I figured I'd stop ignoring it and ask for help.

The first time I start the car each day, the oil light stays on for like 2-3 seconds after the engine is running, and it idles a little bit rough. Then it slowly idles up to where it's set at for cold starts (1500) and it's perfectly fine after that. Oil pressure gauge reads exactly the same as it always has.

Today when I changed my oil, I primed the oil feed line (disconnected the dizzy plugs and cranked it over like 10 times). Started the car up and the light stayed on for about 6 seconds this time, and it continued to idle rough for another 10-15 seconds before it went back to normal.

Oil pressure is fine when the engine is running, so I think the oil pump is fine. However, from searching HT it seems that some people with this issue have discovered it to be a bad bearing...which would suck.

So, any ideas of what my issue might be?

[kerry400f]

What does your oil pressure gauge read when you first start it up? When it idles rough does it idle low or just rough?

[hjdanzi]

You will say that im an ignorant, and maybe you are right.. but if everything else fails... do this... drain your synthetic oil, and put mineral oil... the common type... see if it happens again. I repeat... if everything else fails... just try it...

[MeyerMan SI]

ive seen this happen before MAY NOT apply to you. how did you tune your car? just a street tune or full dyno tune. when we built my friends 500awhp tsi we street tuned it and the idle when cold would be shit and we'd have to keep it from dying and gas it a lil. yours doesnt have the dying problem but thats just my 02. cents IF you are completely stuck man.

[viper_boy403]

It was fully tuned on a dynapack dyno. The car was always warm though, so he never got a chance to tune it from a cold start

[g-gameslude]

How many miles is on your oil pump? What weight oil are you running? What is your oil pressure at 1,000 rpm and at 1,500 rpm?

[sonik_fury]

Low RPM WILL cause low oil pressure! Find out why your car is idling low(it's not your oil pressure). Sounds like your starting a little on the lean side. Have you tried letting your fuel pump prime before starting......turn the key to the on position for a couple seconds before starting, you should here the pump prime to full pressure, THEN start.........Back in the OLD days cars had choke for just this problem. Good luck whatever it is.

[viper_boy403]

I prime my fuel pump every time I start the car. The crappy thing is, my wideband takes a few seconds to warm up too lol, so I cant see what the AFR is either

I know low rpm will cause low pressure, but the oil light comes on at like 3psi, and the light stays on for a solid 3 seconds after it starts. It used to be basically instant oil pressure

g-games, I'll check my oil pressure at those rpms when I get a chance. The oil pump is the original one, 144k miles on it

[egjdmh22a]

this sucks man i hope its not a big issue for you

[g-gameslude]

Also what weight oil are you running? I think that your oil pump might have taken a dump. The idle is supposed to be set at 800 rpm not 1,500 rpm. At 800 rpm you should have at least 10-12 psi. The thicker your oil is the greater your pressure will be. For a forced induction honda I suggest 5w40 or 10w40 for stock bearing clearances and for looser race spec bearing clearances I suggest something thicker like 15w40 or 20w50. For a preferred brand I suggest Rotella T for its higher concentration of anti wear additives.

[viper_boy403]

5w30 mobil 1. My COLD idle is 1500rpm, once it's warmed up it's around 800. I've got about 13psi at idle fully warm, 60psi when cold.

I guess I should probably move on to a thicker oil since the engine is older and worn and probably doesnt have the stock bearing clearances anymore. I've heard good stuff about Shell Rotella because it has zinc among other things like you mentioned. I'll switch to that oil before I go to the dyno again (August 21st) and see how that effects things. I'm not gonna drain out my fresh mobil 1 quite yet haha

[g-gameslude]

Go with the 10w40 Rotella T5 or T6 oil. Mobil is not bad by any means just not thick enough. My oil pressure cold is 80-100 psi cold and 14 hot and that is using 15w30. You could wire in a new oil pressure sending unit that will not turn on the fuel pump until your engine has had a chance to prime the oil orifaces. just a thought. good luck.

[samowen27]

Originally Posted by viper_boy403

5w30 mobil 1. My COLD idle is 1500rpm, once it's warmed up it's around 800. I've got about 13psi at idle fully warm, 60psi when cold.

I guess I should probably move on to a thicker oil since the engine is older and worn and probably doesnt have the stock bearing clearances anymore. I've heard good stuff about Shell Rotella because it has zinc among other things like you mentioned. I'll switch to that oil before I go to the dyno again (August 21st) and see how that effects things. I'm not gonna drain out my fresh mobil 1 quite yet haha

could be your sensor in the back of your block?

[OMega]

That's not a good thing. Do you have a magnet on your oil plug to catch metal shavings? The same thing happend to my old b20a5 motor. Metal shavings would settle at idle causing engine to have a low oil pressure reading but would go away at about 1k. The bearings were fine it turned out the piston's pin wasn't doing its job anymore.
Don't forget how the engine makes its oil pressure, pump and bearings are the main two parts. Easiest way to make sure your pistons are okay is to check your compression.

[viper_boy403]

Compression is 210 across the board. The head was totally rebuilt about a year ago.

I dont have a magnetic plug, but when I dropped the oil pan to get the return line fitting welded on, there were no shavings. I'll definitely look into getting one of those plugs though

[MeyerMan SI]

yeah man by the sounds of it, it seems to me maybe the oil sending unit or maybe oil pump took a shit on you... but it doesnt seem justified that once the car warms up everything works correctly. ide go with the suggestion from g-games and go with the thicker oil. but with that thicker oil it couple put more stress on the pump since it has more mass? i guess youd say to move. so if it really is your oil pump it could inevitably cause a meltdown of the pump. just my .02

[OMega]

Originally Posted by viper_boy403

Compression is 210 across the board. The head was totally rebuilt about a year ago.

I dont have a magnetic plug, but when I dropped the oil pan to get the return line fitting welded on, there were no shavings. I'll definitely look into getting one of those plugs though

Have you tested the compression after you started having problems? Did the total rebuild include a new pump from honda or a manufactured one?

[MeyerMan SI]

he said he had good pression all the way across the board. but yes thats a good ? as well because the remanufactured oil pumps are shit honda oem makes the best by far

[OMega]

Originally Posted by MeyerMan SI

he said he had good pression all the way across the board. but yes thats a good ? as well because the remanufactured oil pumps are shit honda oem makes the best by far

Just wanna make sure those numbers are recent.

[MeyerMan SI]

i do see your point and he said 210 all the way across to me that seems a little odd to be honest for a turbo car...

[viper_boy403]

the 210 was right before I put the turbo on, havent tested it afterwards

The rebuild was only the head, I've never touched the oil pump

This "problem" started literally as soon as the turbo went on, from the first startup. I really need to get a video lol

[MeyerMan SI]

and omega makes me look like a ass DX
it could very well be the oil pump them bro thats what im leaning to in my opinion. but that still doesnt justify after it warms up. yes a video would help tremendously

[OMega]

I'd replace the oil pump and check the bearings.

[kerry400f]

Originally Posted by viper_boy403

the 210 was right before I put the turbo on, havent tested it afterwards

The rebuild was only the head, I've never touched the oil pump

This "problem" started literally as soon as the turbo went on, from the first startup. I really need to get a video lol

That's weird? Where did you tap the oil supply for the turbo?

[viper_boy403]

Sandwich plate