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Old 07-31-2010, 10:35 PM   #26
OMega
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Dam it took me a while to remember but it just hit me like a ton of bricks! Its your turbo! The turbo's bearing aren't putting up enough resistance. You'll need a restrictor fitting on the turbo. It took forever to figure it out on my own. This was like 5 years ago, but seems to common/known problem now.

http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...r-fitting.html

The one I got cost $5 just do some looking around.
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:26 PM   #27
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I'm actually running the OEM banjo bolt on the oil feed so it has a built-in restrictor. HOWEVER the turbo has a solid 1-2mm axial shaft play which is way out of spec, but it runs fine (for now. lol). I wouldnt be surprised if that's the problem, because I can hear a rattling sound coming from the engine bay while it's doing the rough idle/low pressure thing
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_boy403 View Post
I'm actually running the OEM banjo bolt on the oil feed so it has a built-in restrictor. HOWEVER the turbo has a solid 1-2mm axial shaft play which is way out of spec, but it runs fine (for now. lol). I wouldnt be surprised if that's the problem, because I can hear a rattling sound coming from the engine bay while it's doing the rough idle/low pressure thing
You need to have the restrictor fitting just before the turbo and it has to be a certain size. I tested different sizes until I found one that worked. Its less then a $20 I'd get one asap. That's oil going to the turbo not to your head. Your increasing wear on the valve train.....

Last edited by OMega; 08-02-2010 at 04:47 AM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:25 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMega View Post
Dam it took me a while to remember but it just hit me like a ton of bricks! Its your turbo! The turbo's bearing aren't putting up enough resistance. You'll need a restrictor fitting on the turbo. It took forever to figure it out on my own. This was like 5 years ago, but seems to common/known problem now.

http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...r-fitting.html

The one I got cost $5 just do some looking around.
This was going to be my next guess lol.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:49 AM   #30
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If you really have low pressure when idling at warm up operation, you should consider tuning the car so it idles a little bit higher; like 900/950.... according to the helms... you should have 10/12psi at 800/900... so.. if you dont get 10psi at 800.. rev it up to 900.. if you do get 10psi at 900... tune it to leave it there.. that way you can have oil pressure when idling. What aftermarket oil pressure gauge are you using... cause if you are using glowshift... dont worry about it.. they all show 3psi at idle.. and it was discussed ina thread i did and many people told the same thing...

In fact... after i finished my rebuild my glos shift gauge still read 3psi.. so.. just in case... i borrowed 2 other gauges (a mechanical one and another one) and both showed 10psi.. so its a common issue in glowshift. Btw.. my oil pump is brand new, and Honda of course.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:59 AM   #31
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My Glowshift reads fine lol.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:06 AM   #32
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My Glowshift reads fine lol.
lol; i made a thread about it.. and at least 2 or 3 people reported the same issue hahah.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:13 PM   #33
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funny thing is i was reading page one and thinking it was prolly staight line to the turbo with no oil restrictor lol.. good call fellas, just for an example with 5w 30 on a built motor and turbo im running 105psi cold and and around 50psi at 1200 (had a vacum leak ) when warm
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:59 PM   #34
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Alright update time

So today I got back from a trip and decided to drive the lude to work instead of the civic. It has been sitting for about a week so I unplugged the dizzy and cranked it for like 20-25 seconds, then started the car. It built oil pressure instantly but it ran like CRAP for the first 20 seconds. It was at like 200rpms and just stumbling and shaking, until it started to pick up and then went back to normal. I'm starting to think this isnt oil pressure related anymore...
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:04 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_boy403 View Post
Alright update time

So today I got back from a trip and decided to drive the lude to work instead of the civic. It has been sitting for about a week so I unplugged the dizzy and cranked it for like 20-25 seconds, then started the car. It built oil pressure instantly but it ran like CRAP for the first 20 seconds. It was at like 200rpms and just stumbling and shaking, until it started to pick up and then went back to normal. I'm starting to think this isnt oil pressure related anymore...
Are you saying tune related? More specifically, cold start-ups?
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Old 08-05-2010, 03:11 PM   #36
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Yeah, it's really looking like a tuning issue now. Here's a vid I made

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Old 08-05-2010, 06:31 PM   #37
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i called tuning issue in the beginning but did you check bearings and all of that? because as the car warms and oil spreads throughout the engine they get into the bearings and lube them. my experience... my old 95 f150 5.0 did it... took me the longest time to figure out..
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:51 AM   #38
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I'd fix the oil pressure first. Its hard to troubleshoot without a clear plan of action. You know your oil pressure is low fix that. If you are still having problems, look into the tune/anything dealing with open loop.
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:27 PM   #39
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that vid sounds like you have some valve lash or it could just simply be because its cold....
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:58 PM   #40
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low oil pressure on startup and rough idle

Any updates?
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Old 08-19-2010, 02:08 PM   #41
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Kinda. Since I switched back to Mobil 1 at my last oil change (5w30 + mobil1 filter) the oil pressure hasnt really been any sort of an issue anymore. I think the Wix filter I had before had a bad anti-drainback valve or something. It still runs really rough on cold starts though, but I'm pretty sure it's tune related
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:43 PM   #42
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Glad to know you spotted the issue! Good luck!
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