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Old 02-01-2010, 03:08 AM   #26
BuiltF22bTurbo92
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that or the o2 sensor would be more of a problem if it does it when warm. because it tells the ecu what to do when its in closed loop.. or possibly a ectsenor is saying it is hotter then it is causing you to lose fuel causing loss of power. ever do a compression test? sometimes mechanical issues wont effect the motor untill the motor is warm (rings, valves)
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:39 AM   #27
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i did a compression test a while ago everything was fine. but the weird thing is i did a valve adjustment and the car ran "okay" a lot better than it did. then the bogging came back a little bit then i did a valve adjustment again then ran even crappier....had a friend that works at honda do it after that and it still ran the same (crappy).

so im not sure if it was a coincidence that it ran crappy after i did the valve adjustment or if it actaully is the valve adjustment..... but i did it to a T and so did my friend and it never re-fixed the problem.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:03 PM   #28
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i had the same issue but kinda reverse, my car would bog and stall while cold, but once warmed up it would hold an idle 75% of the time, but then would also bog... im at a total loss, im in the proccess of swapping out the head... just waiting on warm weather... id try to replace the ECT. i cant remember which page of my book i read it on and word for word but it does mention that once the car warms up it adjust fuel and BS... let me search for the page and ill post it word for word. I believe there are more than one ECT, one on the block under the dizzy, one on the front upper radiator housing, (on head) and then one by the thermo? i could be wrong about the last one though...
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:54 PM   #29
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no your correct 1 on head 1 rght afte the thermostat the 1 on the housing coimingoff the front of the head (upper hose)
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:19 PM   #30
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well tried a o2 sensor and nothing. i did randomly get a IAT sensor code so im gonna swap the one i have laying around in. i really dont think a IAT sensor could cause that much bogging tho but its worth a try.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:33 PM   #31
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have you replaced the map sensor or crank sensor? or have messed up wiring to either?

what about injectors, when is the last time they were cleaned? and same with fuel filter. i have a hunch if they haven't been touched in a while they could have gunk in them from bad or old gas. and you say it has gotten worse well the more you drive the more poopy gas goes through and get stuck in the little mini filter. you can clean them yourself with a can of carb cleaner and compressed air. and rig up an injector harness so you can turn it on with a 9v so it remains open so the cleaner can soak in.

edit, when is the last time you pulled the spark plugs, and what do they look like the engine has been running? lean? rich?

i think we are thinking too hard about this. go back to some basic shit. gas, air, spark.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:39 PM   #32
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well my crank sensor is in my dizzy cuz im running a h23 dizzy. i bought a new dizzy and actually got a code for the dizzy so i need to return it and get a new one. but the problem was happening before i got that code. i put in a new fuel filter. as far as the map sensor one of the guys that looked at my car said he tried a different one but i wont believe it till i try it. and for the fuel injectors i have never cleaned them. i got the engine with like 50k or so they say. but ya i should probably clean them out so i can check that off too.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:54 PM   #33
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where did you get the dizz from? autozone's are garbage and i never buy electrical parts from them either. i usually go with genuine parts because of the discount i get. and when you put it back in, make sure you set your timing with a timing gun. you can rent one from autozone that will work fine
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