[hondalude89]

Originally Posted by Jokersob

will a 91 radiator fit my 89 both are 5 speed. does the 2.0si and 2.1 make a difference

Yes, it will fit. No, it does not make a difference.

The quick and easy way to find out if parts are interchangeable between year models, is to go to autozone.com. Pick the two cars that you want or have a question about. Then go to the part you're looking for and then look at the part number for one car and then look at the other part number for the other car. If they are the same, then boooom, you got your answer.

-Carlos

[tsiah]

Originally Posted by hondalude89

Yea, it's not a specific question about the Nissan engine. It's an engine building question if you will. I mean, this same scenario can apply to either a Ford, Chevy, Honda or Toyota engine for that matter. And honestly I have been here long enough to trust this community more than others.

I mean, moto obviously builds engines and others on here have as well, so I would trust their opinion and knowledge.

-Carlos

Did you replace the headbolts or are you reusing them?

[motoxxxman]

Originally Posted by Kbulls91Lude

A B20A5 is 1956cc, rounded up = "2.0" (88-91 2.0Si's & 4WS)
A B21A1 is 2056cc, rounded up = 2.1 (91 Si's)

PK2 = OBD0 , which i think are 88-89 ludes
PK3 = OBD1, which i think are 90-91 ludes

correction:
pk2 = obd0, which is all 88-89 fuel injected ludes, AND 90-91 2.0Si ludes (originally came with b20a5)
pk3 = obd1, which is 90-91 Si's that originally came with a b21

Originally Posted by granprix

Boosted brothers and sisters,I come to the prelude gods for advice.

I have an opportunity to get the whole turbo system off a 94 saab 900 turbo for 75 bucks,it has it's own little intercooler,water and oil lines complete,all told,a complete stock system.
Yes.
I searched,found that this system can and will reliably deliver 5 to 9 lbs of boost through the whole RPM range,is tough as nails,and works good.

My ride is a 91 si with a b20a motor,four wire 02 sensor,(OBD1),good compression,no oil smoke.
I've been to the forced induction thread but somehow can't wrap my brain around the fuel and tuning part of boosting a honda.

My goal is not drag oriented,my car is set up for curves,and while the turbo system looks kinda bulky,I don't show the car,I drive it.
I just want the extra power to be respectable,MOTO,I've read your posts MANY times,as well as many others on here,just can't seem to process what needs to be done to the obd1 board to make it accept the turbo.

Things I know,
Walboro fuel pump.
oil line from sending unit tee.
return in pan above oil level
coolant lines on heater hoses,or lines I know will flow
turn back timing.
add more fuel(don't know how)
91 octane
the cooler the charge the better
get it tuned (anybody in maryland who knows a good tuner for a third gen speak up,the first thing the local guy said was,Hey,you can put a vtec head on that!
I got my pen and paper ready,can you guys help an older rodder?

you would actually want to use 93 octane at all times, 91 isnt always high enough.
as for timing and fuel, you dont adjust anything physical on the car. you still use stock distributor adjustment (aka stock base timing). to get the fuel and ignition correct, you need a tuneable ecu; that will adjust everything for you. you also need larger fuel injectors so it can actually deliver the proper extra amount of fuel.
prelude ecu's are not tuneable; you need to buy a complete chipped ecu or other form of tuneable ecu, all of which are available through me of course

Originally Posted by hondalude89

*HELP!* MOTO or ANYONE with experience

Head bolt tightening spec: 72 ft.lbs - loosen - 30 ft.lbs - 90 degrees - 90 degrees


I would love to get an answer to this. Please, no speculation, just answers. I have a car I am putting the heads back on. 1996 Infinity I30 with a VQ30 engine. The head bolts stripped the threading on two holes. This happened while I was torquing down the head to specs. I have repaired the holes, but now I have a third one. Damn it, now I am to the point where I am going to preempt this and just fix all head bolt holes.

I got to the third step on my torque/tightening sequence and I stripped another hole. My question is this; Can I still use the head gasket? It is a "composite" type head gasket and not a metal one. Just want to know if I can re-use it or if I should get a new one. I figured I can since I haven't finished the whole torquing sequence/spec.

Please let me know, that way I can move on with this and get this stupid car back on the road. I really need another car.

-Carlos

i really really hate when those types of specs are given, they often are too much and will as you found out cause stripped bolts or blocks. reason is because different gaskets will crush differently, and the 90 degree rotation spec crap is assuming a certain amount of crush in the gasket. if the gasket wont crush enough, you get bolts that get over-torqued.
in a situation like that, i would do the first spec torque, then loosen, then torque to the first low spec, then torque again to around 50, then final torque that is a few ft/lbs higher than that original spec, so around 75ft/lbs or so. in short: 72, loosen, 30, 50, 75.
and make sure the bolt threads are clean and corrosion free beforehand.

[hondalude89]

Originally Posted by motoxxxman

i really really hate when those types of specs are given, they often are too much and will as you found out cause stripped bolts or blocks. reason is because different gaskets will crush differently, and the 90 degree rotation spec crap is assuming a certain amount of crush in the gasket. if the gasket wont crush enough, you get bolts that get over-torqued.
in a situation like that, i would do the first spec torque, then loosen, then torque to the first low spec, then torque again to around 50, then final torque that is a few ft/lbs higher than that original spec, so around 75ft/lbs or so. in short: 72, loosen, 30, 50, 75.
and make sure the bolt threads are clean and corrosion free beforehand.

Cool, I actually like that better. LOL.

Do you think reusing the same gasket would be ok though? I mean since I technically didn't do the last 90 degree turn, I guess it's not crushed all the way.

-Carlos

Originally Posted by tsiah

Did you replace the headbolts or are you reusing them?

Replaced them, they were a bit too long from the factory spec.

-Carlos

[granprix]

Originally Posted by motoxxxman

correction:
pk2 = obd0, which is all 88-89 fuel injected ludes, AND 90-91 2.0Si ludes (originally came with b20a5)
pk3 = obd1, which is 90-91 Si's that originally came with a b21



you would actually want to use 93 octane at all times, 91 isnt always high enough.
as for timing and fuel, you dont adjust anything physical on the car. you still use stock distributor adjustment (aka stock base timing). to get the fuel and ignition correct, you need a tuneable ecu; that will adjust everything for you. you also need larger fuel injectors so it can actually deliver the proper extra amount of fuel.
prelude ecu's are not tuneable; you need to buy a complete chipped ecu or other form of tuneable ecu, all of which are available through me of course

I'm going to secure the hard parts tomorrow,including saabs knock box.
Read the testimonials on your chip site,WON'T use ANYONE else for my ECU!


I CAN HAS TURBO!!!!! cue demon laugh

Thanks bro!

[B-Yeag.]

Originally Posted by motoxxxman

actually, if you're at stock ride height or slightly lower than stock, i'd suggest these specs for you:

front:
camber: -1.3 degrees
caster: 3.3 degrees if they can get it to that, otherwise go with 3.0 degrees
total toe: 0.00 degrees

rear:
camber: -0.9 degrees
total toe: 0.12 degrees

i dont remember where i posted it, but as a general rule of thumb for a great performing yet still safe alignment would be:
-always zero toe in front
-slightly less total toe-in than stock spec for the rear
-front camber: set both front wheels to have as much negative camber as possible (aka sliding the upper balljoints in all the way), then adjust whichever wheel has more camber to match the same camber setting as the opposite side. in short, as much camber as possible, but equally matched on both front wheels.
-rear camber: 0.4-0.5 degrees less than what you set the front to
-caster: stock spec, or more, i prefer more if it can be achieved without affecting camber too much. so somewhere between 3.0-3.5, closer to 3.5.

.

Moto,

(Thanks for the help you gave me on alignment specs about a month ago.)

***HOW ARE THESE SPECS FOR TIRE WEAR on the street???***

The alignment shop set my car to their own recommended specs instead--including 1/32" total toe front and rear.

I can have go back and have them re-do it, but wanted to check on Tire Wear first!

Thanks,
-B.

P.S.
Stock suspension, 4WS (i provided the 4ws tool also.)

[91_lude_si_4ws]

ok. im new here and i have a question about my b20a5. all the other cars i have owned hit the rev limiter at redline. this one does not. im not too sure if anything has been done to the engine so i dont really push it that hard. i just got the car about a week ago. its a 91 si 4ws. (if you cant tell from my name.) haha but anywho, it shows redline at 6500 rpm but it will go to 7k. i have not pushed it harder than that because it is my DD and my only car and i dont want to know if anything is done the hard way. at lower rpms it sounds kinda like a subi with the deep throaty exhaust note. (2250-3200 rpm) and a 4k-5500 rpm it sounds like a pissed off bumble bee. (really loud high raspy exhaust note.) im thinking it has a chipped ecu and maybe cams. i know it has chikara header and custom exhaust with a high flow cat. thats all the previous owner told me. i did cut the muffler off because they put it on upside down. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

[tlroberts23]

Hey Moto,
I was thinking of changing my own timing belt in my 89 si, how hard is this process? i have some mechanical skill and i can pull this off my only conern is not screwing up the timing and tighting the new belt once im in there. Any pointers

[stormhawke269]

Originally Posted by tlroberts23

Hey Moto,
I was thinking of changing my own timing belt in my 89 si, how hard is this process? i have some mechanical skill and i can pull this off my only conern is not screwing up the timing and tighting the new belt once im in there. Any pointers

I believe that the hardest part is that the belt runs around the motor mount. Its always best to also replace the Tensionor at the same time. That way you at least have a new belt and the tensionor will be the right tension on the timing belt.
as for how long it takes.... will that depends on how hard it is to move the motor mount and remember to keep the engine jacked up on side that the belt is on till after the mount is back in place bolted to spec.

[PJF_Lude]

Originally Posted by 91_lude_si_4ws

ok. im new here and i have a question about my b20a5. all the other cars i have owned hit the rev limiter at redline. this one does not. im not too sure if anything has been done to the engine so i dont really push it that hard. i just got the car about a week ago. its a 91 si 4ws. (if you cant tell from my name.) haha but anywho, it shows redline at 6500 rpm but it will go to 7k. i have not pushed it harder than that because it is my DD and my only car and i dont want to know if anything is done the hard way. at lower rpms it sounds kinda like a subi with the deep throaty exhaust note. (2250-3200 rpm) and a 4k-5500 rpm it sounds like a pissed off bumble bee. (really loud high raspy exhaust note.) im thinking it has a chipped ecu and maybe cams. i know it has chikara header and custom exhaust with a high flow cat. thats all the previous owner told me. i did cut the muffler off because they put it on upside down. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

stock rev limit is 7200 rpm
exhaust raspy at high rpm, sounds like a typical poorly designed exhaust system

[91_lude_si_4ws]

Originally Posted by PJF_Lude

stock rev limit is 7200 rpm
exhaust raspy at high rpm, sounds like a typical poorly designed exhaust system

well the pipe is mandrel bent. and the gasket connecting the header and downpipe is blown but i cant get the bolts off to replace it with one i got from an ebay header and downpipe for my d15b vtec. ill probably just use some jb weld on the outer portion. haha.

[stlschindler]

Originally Posted by hondalude89

Yea, it's not a specific question about the Nissan engine. It's an engine building question if you will. I mean, this same scenario can apply to either a Ford, Chevy, Honda or Toyota engine for that matter. And honestly I have been here long enough to trust this community more than others.

I mean, moto obviously builds engines and others on here have as well, so I would trust their opinion and knowledge.

-Carlos

Your doing something wrong or you have the wrong tourque specs. One pulling the threads out is one thing but with it happening four times something is wrong such as:

-Wrong Specs (make sure that the listed specs are in ftlbs and not the metric)
-wrong bolts (length)
-Not to be mean or insulting but 90 degress would be from the 12 oclock to the 3 oclock position (most likely not your problem but you never know)

Personally I would not try and reuse this head gasket just because it is not worth having to pull it back apart for a leak down the road. spend the extra 100-200 now and get a new gasket.

How are you fixing the threads?

[hondalude89]

Originally Posted by stlschindler

Your doing something wrong or you have the wrong tourque specs. One pulling the threads out is one thing but with it happening four times something is wrong such as:

-Wrong Specs (make sure that the listed specs are in ftlbs and not the metric)
-wrong bolts (length)
-Not to be mean or insulting but 90 degress would be from the 12 oclock to the 3 oclock position (most likely not your problem but you never know)

Personally I would not try and reuse this head gasket just because it is not worth having to pull it back apart for a leak down the road. spend the extra 100-200 now and get a new gasket.

How are you fixing the threads?

-Spec per the FSM is 72ft. lbs./ 92 N.m. I doubt Infinity/Nissan has the wrong spec on their own engine.
-Bolts are Infinity OEM (dealer items)
-I know 90 degrees is 90 degrees. I've got an angle meter on top of that.

You hit the head on the nail. After marinating over it for a couple of days, I decided to get a new gasket for this bank. Thought the same thing you did LOL.

I already fixed the threads, used Helicoil. I am in love with it now. Never repaired threads myself until now. Definitely fixed the problem.

-Carlos

[stlschindler]

Originally Posted by hondalude89

-Spec per the FSM is 72ft. lbs./ 92 N.m. I doubt Infinity/Nissan has the wrong spec on their own engine.
-Bolts are Infinity OEM (dealer items)
-I know 90 degrees is 90 degrees. I've got an angle meter on top of that.

You hit the head on the nail. After marinating over it for a couple of days, I decided to get a new gasket for this bank. Thought the same thing you did LOL.

I already fixed the threads, used Helicoil. I am in love with it now. Never repaired threads myself until now. Definitely fixed the problem.

-Carlos

Yeah Newton Meters - I couldn't remember that for the life of me last night.

I remember one time my brother called me up and he was working on a car and was stripping the cam cap bolts out and he was using like 90 ft lbs instead of inch lbs. There was a Sailor that worked for me a ways back that thought 90 degress was 180 degrees.

I am glad you got it fixed.

[Johnrb]

Hey Moto!

any idea on why you made more power (when you were NA) than cidgrad's old car?
considering he had web cams/60mm tb/dc header/higher compression shouldn't he have made more power everywhere?

Your dyno results are making me believe his cams and tb didn't contribute much.

[thisbejeffe]

I don't know much about cidgrad's car but can tell you Moto has fine tuned his ECU and nit picked on pretty much everything about his car. Very minor stuff can contribute to better performance and add's up.

my 2 cents

[preloaded91]

Now I know this is a stupid question and im drawing a blank on which gasket I need.


for my valve cover do we need the one with grommets and spark plug tube seals or the one with out the grommets and spark plug tube seals......or how can I tell which gasket I need

[LudeBob89]

The DOHC B20A engines use a gasket with additional spark pug seals.
What are the grommets?

[hondalude89]

Originally Posted by preloaded91

Now I know this is a stupid question and im drawing a blank on which gasket I need.


for my valve cover do we need the one with grommets and spark plug tube seals or the one with out the grommets and spark plug tube seals......or how can I tell which gasket I need

Should come with everything when you buy a valve cover gasket. Unless you buy it from Honda, I don't know if they sell them separate or as a set.

-Carlos

[Guy]

My intake wistles constantly what could it be? Replaced hoses, tb, all gaskets.

[preloaded91]

The question is on the picture, not my motor this is a picture of one intact

[preloaded91]

Originally Posted by hondalude89

Should come with everything when you buy a valve cover gasket. Unless you buy it from Honda, I don't know if they sell them separate or as a set.

-Carlos

well at auto zone they have one that comes with the spark plug tubes and gromments and then they sell one without the plug tubes and gromments

[TripleLude]

Originally Posted by preloaded91

The question is on the picture, not my motor this is a picture of one intact

Your engine bay is clean. That is the EGR tube. If it is cut and plugged, it shouldn't make the car run crappy. Only thing I can think of is it needs a block-off plate on the intake manifold. Otherwise, it may pull outside air in and basically bypass the throttle body.

[B-Yeag.]

...Anyone have insight / knowledge on my Alignment vs. street Tire Wear question??? (see post #1756)

[preloaded91]

Originally Posted by TripleLude

Your engine bay is clean. That is the EGR tube. If it is cut and plugged, it shouldn't make the car run crappy. Only thing I can think of is it needs a block-off plate on the intake manifold. Otherwise, it may pull outside air in and basically bypass the throttle body.

yea but if it bypasses the throttle body couldn't that make it run worse then if it wasn't bypassing the throttle body? Also does anyone know where to buy one from?

The only reason I ask is because when i'm driving sometimes my car seems to bog out and when i press the gas pedal down farther it bogs harder till i'm pretty much to the floor then it just takes off. Also the other way to get it to not bog down is to take my foot of the gas and press it again very lightly till it starts to bog down again. When this happens the check engine light isnt on, but when it stops doing that then the light comes on. So i geuss im just tryin to figure out whats going on.

Also it's not my motor lol I found a pic that has the line attached just so you could see it clearly